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X1 PRO & X1 Stealth Chainring Options Explained


What you need to know to get the right size chainring



CYC offers 3 different chainring options in the X1 Pro mid drive kit ; the 32T, the 38T and the 40T The X1 Stealth however, only has 2 chainring options ; the 32T and the 38T. Now the big question comes in... which one is the right chainring option for you?


If you're completely unsure which option to choose, we recommend choosing a chainring option that is close to your bike's current set-up.


For example, say you own a 32T or 34T chainring and plan to convert to an ebike, the 32T option with a 53T motor chainring would be most suitable. While someone else with a 40T or larger chainring, the 40T option with a 72T inner chainring will fit their bicycle nicely.


This of course is our recommendation only. Feel free to pick any option you see fit to reach your desired goals with your mid drive kit. Just be sure to watch out for your chainstay.


OK, so what's the differences?







Option

11/53T or

32T with 53T motor chainring

11/63T or

38T with 63T motor chainring

11/72T or

40T with 72T motor chainring

Inner Chainring

32T 104BCD

38T 104BCD

40T 104BCD

Diameter

140mm

165mm

190mm

Compatibility

X1 Pro & X1 Stealth

X1 Pro & X1 Stealth

X1 Pro

Before we dig in to it, it's important to note where the chainring options get their name from. For example, a "32T with 53T motor chainring, It's rather simple actually. Contrary to popular believe, the "11" does not refer to your cassette. Any size cassette is compatible. Using the 11/53T option as reference, the "11" is for the 11T on the small motor sprocket driving the gearbox shaft whereas the "53" refers to the number of teeth on the 219H motor chainring.


The most common misconception is that the chainring has a significant impact on your top speed, when in fact, the chainring only has a real impact on cadence and the clearance you want to achieve. Here's why:


THE CHAINRING OPTIONS AFFECT YOUR CADENCE


When you change to a larger chainring- like a 53T to 72T, with the same motor RPM, the cadence RPM will decrease at the crank, but at the same time, your gear ratio to the rear wheel will increase in overdrive, which will cancel each other out. Though, do keep in mind that this is based on staying in the same gear on your cassette.


In other words, the chainring only acts as a transfer gear for the motor to the cassette. Because the two chainrings are roughly the same in diameter, there is no added gear ratio at the crank.

THE CHAINRING OPTIONS AFFECT YOUR CLEARANCE

It's worth noting that it's not always about the cadence rating but also the physical size of the chainring. When choosing chainring options for your electric bike, your desired ground clearance needs to be kept in mind. Not only does the physical size of the chainring affect your ground clearance but for bikes using BB92 or for a lot of full suspension bikes, the 11/72T will most likely clash with the bike's chain stay, in which case, the rider will need to use a smaller chainring like the 11/63T or 11/53T option.


WHAT ABOUT TORQUE?


When your bike is being powered by the motor, a larger chainring will give you more torque. This is the opposite to pedaling without motor assistance. The difference in torque is not significant though so we rule this out as an aspect to consider.


TOP SPEEDS AT THE CRANK


The top speed at the crank will vary with the chainring options you choose but as we mentioned, your overall top speed will stay the same. Listed below are the various outputs possible at the crank.

11/53T option

11/63T option

11/72T option

If you are ever uncertain about which option to pick after reading this article, feel free to contact us at technical_support@cycmotor.com or you can refer to the FAQ page!

3 Comments


Guest
3 days ago

What is they specs for the inside 11teeth sprocket .. would a 10 teeth sprocket work .. is 11teeth with 12 bore correct measurement

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I have a 32t chain ring that just nicks the chain stay so I need a little more clearance. Do you have thinner spacers that will give me the clearance with out sacrificing safety between the 2 chains? Or do you have any other ideas?

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Replying to

I has same issue. Easiest thing is to get an angle grinder and grind down a little of the chainstay until the chain ring just clears. Worked great for me and I am now running a 52T.

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